La Fartona

Un blog de viajes, gastronomía, literatura y vida // Blog about Travel, Food, Literature and Lifestyle

The Ultimate Miyajima Guide: where to stay, what to do, how to move around and where to eat

The Ultimate Miyajima Guide: where to stay, what to do, how to move around and where to eat

Miyajima is a small island south Hiroshima. This place is worldwide known because of its Giant Torii and its shrine, both of them over the water. During the day, the place is packed with tourist and all the shops and restaurants are open. However, when the sun comes down, everybody disappears and only remain open four restaurants and the original inhabitants of this island, the wild deers.

How many days do you need to visit Miyajima?

I’ve only stayed one night in Miyajima and I had time enough to visit everything on the island. I arrived at Miyajima around 17.30 in the afternoon and I still had time to have a walk on the beach, visit the Great torii and the Itsukushima Shrine. I have to say that the tide was low and I miss the charm of seeing the torii and the shrine floating on the water.

The next morning, I woke up early in the morning and I went to take some pictures of the torii, this time floating on the water when tide was high. When the tourists arrived, I decided to start hiking the Mt. Misen and after that, I also wandered around the amazing Daoshin temples.

So, I sincerely believe that you will have enough if you stay one night in Miyajima.

Where to stay in Miyajima?

I stayed at Hostel Kaniwa which currently is permanently closed and I paid 24€ per one night. It’s a shame that they closed this hostel because it was pretty new, with a nice interior design and the owners were very friendly. Also, I had amazing views of the sea from my bedroom.

However, if you want to have a more traditional stay in Miyajima, you can book a hotel which usually has its own onsen and the bedrooms have the traditional futon to sleep on the floor. I didn’t do it because my budget was a bit tight and because I would have enjoyed more of this experience if I’ve had shared it with someone else.

What to do and to visit in Miyajima?

La Fartona with the Great torii behind her

If you visit Miyajima, you have to visit the Great torii and the Itsukushima shrine. The Great torii has suffered several damages, mainly, because its location in the water. When I visited the torii in 2017, it was a reconstruction of 1875 and was the eighth of which there is evidence. In 2019, the torii has started to be reconstructed again, so please, before planning your trip to Miyajima check how is the reconstruction going on because it would be a shame if you visit the island and the torii is covered.

View of the Itsukushima shrine and its Five Pagoda tower

I visited the Itsukushima shrine in the afternoon when the tide was low, so the grace of this place was lost a bit, since it is much prettier when the water runs below the reddish buildings.

View of the Great Torii from the Itsukushima Shrine

The complex of this shinto Shrine is formed by multiple pavilions, although the main rooms are: the Honden, main hall; the Haiden, prayer room and the Heiden dedicated to offerings. In addition, we also have the Great torii and the Hirubitai, a platform where plays and other traditional performing arts are held.

Daisho-in temple surrounded by autumnal trees

The shrine and the great torii are very beautiful, but my favorite part of Miyajima is, without a doubt, the Daishoin (a set of 9th century Buddhist temples), Momijidani Park (spectacular place full of maples trees) and hiking to the Mount Misen.

Wonderful view of Buddhist temples and autumnal trees

As I mentioned above, I arrived in Miyajima about half past five in the afternoon and that same afternoon I visited the Itsukushima Shrine, the great torii and its pagoda. I’ve also had time to take a good walk on the beach and at night, I had dinner at one of the few open restaurants on the island.

The next day, I woke up at half past seven for breakfast and went to the Daisho-in area. Once there, I got lost in the many Buddhist temples that are scattered around and when I realized, I was climbing the Mount Misen. There is a cable car that goes up to the top of the mountain, but in my case, I decided to walk and I was around two and a half hours hiking.

Momijidani maples forest

Once up, the views are stunning and all the effort of the climb is worth it. I descent with the cable car and around 12.30, I was already with my backpack hanging and on the ferry towards the train station that would take me from Hiroshima to Osaka and from Osaka to Tokyo.

Where to eat in Miyajima?

For breakfast and lunch, it is very easy to find restaurants and izakayas open. But, at night there are only four restaurants open. No, I’m not kidding.

Fried oysters with curry at Mame-tanuki

One restaurant had Italian food, another offered okinomiyaki and the other two were Japanese taverns. In the end, I decided on Mame-tanuki and there I ordered a plate of fried oysters with curry and rice. It wasn’t the best restaurant in the world, but I love Japanese curry and had to try the local specialty, the oysters.

Another thing you have to try while in Miyajima are some sweets shaped like a maple leaf that are sold in the street stands and are delicious. They can be filled with different flavors both sweet and savory. I especially loved the leaf stuffed with chestnut paste.

If you want to know more about Japanese food and where to eat in Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, Nara and Hiroshima, you have to check this post.

How to get around Miyajima?

I walked everywhere because the tourist area is fairly small, so every spot is close. The only way to get onto this island is through the ferry. The ship leaves constantly from the mainland to the island and vice versa.

I’ve also used a cable car to get off Mount Misen, but the rest of the time I walked everywhere. At night, I went with the flashlight of my mobile on because the streets weren’t very well lit and I got scared when a wild deer crossed my way.

Best season to visit Miyajima

I visited Miyajima in early November and it was wonderful. As we have seen in the images above, the maple trees were beautiful and their colors gave to the atmosphere a spectacular touch. So for me, the best time is autumn. However, if you cannot go during this time, spring must also be spectacular.

In winter and summer you can have a bit more drastic climates, since it can be very cold or very hot.

Miyajima was my great discovery in Japan. It was a place that left me speechless because it has everything a tourist destination can desire: historical places, beach, mountains, nature, gastronomy and wild animals.

And you, have you ever been in Miyajima? Would you like to visit it? Leave me your comments!!

La Fartona

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